Panetar Sarees: Reviving a Bridal Classic with Modern Flair
Panetar Sarees:- In the vibrant world of Indian textiles, Panetar sarees have always held a special place, particularly in the cultural fabric of Gujarat. Traditionally worn by brides on their wedding day, these sarees are known for their striking combination of white and red hues, intricate zari work, and the use of luxurious silk fabric. As fashion evolves, Panetar sarees are making a comeback, blending their timeless appeal with modern design sensibilities. Designers are reinterpreting these classics, introducing contemporary elements while preserving their rich heritage, making Panetar sarees a popular choice not only for brides but also for those who appreciate the elegance of traditional Indian attire
Background and Evolution:-
Panetar is essentially the Gujarati name for the bridal saree that is gifted to the bride by her maternal uncle. Initially, this bridal saree showcased green in its border and pallav. This tradition evolved to incorporate the colors saffron and yellow around the time of the independence of India. Post-independence, the color scheme underwent a change once more and this time ’round, the border and pallav were dyed either in red or maroon, both of which are joyous colors.
Historically, the bride would wear the Panetar during the first half of the wedding ceremony and would change into the Gharchola for the second half, thus symbolizing her transition from one family to the other. Today, however, the common practice is to wear a Gharchola dupatta over the head and the shoulders while showcasing a Panetar bridal saree on the body.
Region:-
Saree that is traditionally worn by the bride, during her wedding ceremony in the western (Indian) state of Gujarat by Gujarati and Kutchi community. These regal, stunning sarees are usually made in the colors of red (and its shades) and white/ cream – embellished with golden embroidery.
The color combination of white and red is considered holy in many segments of the Hindu culture. This combination is culturally associated with Goddess Durga – the epitome of beauty and strength of the feminine divine power. Also, while red is associated with love, passion, fertility and happiness, white is a color of purity and peace.
Thus, the traditional Gujarati Bridal attire, Panetar is a celebration of womanhood. Dedicated to the lovely symbolism of a woman’s transition from her youthful innocence to marital vibrancy, heavily embellished Panetar saree is crafted, hence, in celebrated hues of white (or ivory/ cream) and vermilion red (or maroon/ scarlet).
Similarly, Bengali Garad sarees with stark white forming the body of the saree, while red running through the borders is quite a popular trend. These pretty sarees are an integral part of any Bengali woman’s wardrobe, and are worn on wedding, auspicious days, religious occasions and festivals.
The Making:-
The Panetar saree along with the Gharchola is made by the Chhipa and Khatri communities from Gujarat. While the fabric for the Panetar may be machine woven, the embroidery and embellishments on the saree are all done by hand. This type of saree resembles the Bengali Tant Sarees in the color scheme, But is differentiated from it in its textile and the extensive hand embroidery done on it.
Features of the Panetar
The Panetar is made of white Gajji silk and has thin linear stripes or thin checks in gold zari. The border and the pallav are either red or maroon in color and were traditionally embellished with bandhani or tie and dye. The motifs were abstract yet simple with dots in either white or yellow. This was the basic Panetar saree which could also be embellished with sequins and stones in techniques indigenous to the state of Gujarat.
The Gujarati Panetar has red/ maroon borders and embellishments. Its body is typically white or cream or ivory. The white/ivory part of the saree is embellished with red/ maroon Bandhani and red and gold embroidery. The red of the saree is decorated with white and gold accents. Since green is also considered a very auspicious color, many Panetar sarees have green accents, like sequins, Bandhani dots and embroidery. Some Panetar sarees and Panetar Lehengas come with deep green blouses too.
Designer Panetar Sarees:-
The heavy and ornate Panetar sarees are supposed to be it for a queen. Thus, brides and families generally don’t spare any expenses, while buying them. Many even get them designed specifically, as per their liking and preferences.
Some brides select pure Kanjeevaram and Banarasi fabric base for their Panetar, and get it hand embellished. The cost of a Panetar rises, depending on the base material, intricacy of hand embellishments and designer touches.
Maintenance:-
The Panetar should be carefully maintained keeping in mind its delicate fabric and intricate detailing. Washing in the machine should be avoided. Delicate suds while hand washing the saree or lehenga choli is preferred. It should be wrapped in a muslin cloth along with naphthalene balls to prevent damage by insects.
- Nowadays the body of the saree is also as heavily embroidered as the pallav and border are.
- The red in the Panetar is a recent change although red has always been part of the bridal trousseau in the larger Hindu community.
- Gujarati bridal wear has slowly begun to incorporate modern, wedding wear color schemes such as peach and rose pink.
- While the earliest coloring on the Panetar was done with natural dyes, the modern garments use chemical dyes.